Star of India on Little Rock Appetite.com

Sami Lal is a local legend. The proprietor of Central Arkansas' best known Indian restaurant is renowned for his ability to greet his guests by name when they enter the Star of India.

"It's a God blessing," Sami says of his amazing gift for recall. "God comes to my mouth and gives me the person's name."

Not to detract from divine inspiration, but it probably doesn't hurt that few Star of India customers let much time lapse between visits. One reason is the warm welcome and gracious service. Piping hot stacks of crisp, peppery poppadoms appear on diners' tables almost as soon as they are seated, best enjoyed with a cold Indian beer or sweet mango lassi (a non-alcoholic mango/yogurt drink), as you undertake the leisurely process of deciding what to order.

It can be tough to choose. The menu is extensive, offering curries and tandoori (Indian barbecue) of every kind, a wide selection of Indian side dishes, appetizers, condiments, breads, and traditional desserts. Creamy vegetarian saag paneer, chicken tikka masala, melt-in-your-mouth lamb, rice pillau and bring-more naan bread are stars of the menu, but Sami stresses that it is all fresh, wonderful and unique (his personal recipes). If only you could have one of everything.

Well, you almost can, if you come for the famous weekday lunch buffet, or order one of "Star Specials," multi-course, sampler menus that let you taste a variety of exquisitely matched dishes for a deal.

It's likely you'll be holding at least one to-go box as Sami bids you a warm goodbye. And it's almost a certainty you won't be giving him a chance to forget your face or name.